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Rock Climbing in West Cornwall
West Cornwall, the area including both the Land's End and Lizard Peninsulas, is home to a wealth of sea cliff climbing to rival any in the country. Although there are plenty of hard routes, the area is perhaps best known for it's more amenable classics.
The coast stretching from St. Ives on the North Coast, round to Penzance on the South (which I have referred to as The Land's End Peninsula) is composed mostly of granite sea cliffs, although there are a few examples of Greenstone and Killas Slate crags scattered around the North Coast between St. Just and St. Ives. There are 3 "main" crags - Bosigran and Sennen on the North Coast and Chair Ladder on the South although. These tend to absorb most visiting climbers so if it's somewhere a little quieter you're after study your guide book and you won't find it hard to get off the beaten track!
The Lizard Peninsula is, on the whole, a relatively recently developed climbing area. The rock (that you climb on!) here is of 3 main types - Mica Schist, Ampribolite and Serpentine. These rock types can vary dramatically in quality from excellent to ....! Fans of steep juggy routes, generally with good gear, will be happy here!
Where to stay
During the summer tourism is the main industry in the area and there are plenty of beautiful Cornwall cottages to enjoy a break in.
When to visit
The summer months are always most popular with both normal tourists and climbers alike and the weather can be excellent... but we all know what the British climate is like! My own preference is to visit either between September and May, when the crowds are not about and the crags/pubs are quiet. The weather can be more of a gamble but having said that you do get plenty of fine settled spells. It is worth noting that the area has it's own micro-climate which can sometimes work to your advantage... If the Land's End Peninsula is damp it can be gloriously sunny on The Lizard!
What gear to take
A standard rack of gear should suffice (wires, friends, quick-draws, hexes etc). An abseil rope can also be very useful!
Guidebooks
The definitive guide is West Cornwall (Published by the Climbers Club). Cornish Rock, a topical based guide by Rowland Edwards and Tim Dennell, also covers the main climbing areas. A selection of routes can also be found in South West Climbs (Pat Littlejohn/ Diadem).
... and remember many of the crags here are tidal. The Climbers' Club webite has time-tables.
